"they do not have to agree with everything that the vault millau so published, but the decision to make andreas krolik the chef of the year 2017 is already remarkable. because it was not only its consistently high quality that he brought into the park hotel of brenner and later into the tigerpalast two Melin stars, but also its openness to expand the grand kitchen through areas that did not exist so far. that vegetarian walks in most menus have their fixed place is no longer an exciting novelty. but parallel to the classic tasting menu is a purely vegan menu, i.e. to offer even more of the extended version without animal products and to lift it to star levels, something special in the local gastro landscape. through a victor I came to enjoy the value of a five-course menu that gave us a way to the main metropolis and the elegant restaurant in the firm house of the palm garden. I have not intended to test the entire vegan menu, but the one or the other should be it, and so we decided to use the full 7-speed version of the tasting menu, where I exchanged one between and the main course to test the sweet variant. already the apéros show that andreas krolik likes it in detail, aesthetic and taste-intensive. this applies both to the sweet of the green asparagus with pfeffer apple sauce and to the pizza cushion filled with roasted cauliflower cream, which gives the salt lemon a strong thrust. apéros: luxuriant in green asparagus with paprika apfelwein foam pizza cushion filled with roasted flower flower cream and lemon also the amuse bouche is elaborate and complex work. delicate like an active and smoked, rettich and gurkensalat, a fine, only discreetly fragile borretscheis and a saffron-limone cream as a connecting element are a perfect cool starter on this warm evening. so detail krolik describes his dishes, so finely decorated each ingredient already appears gruß in this kitchen. amuse bouche: mountain trout as a tattooed and smoked with borretscheis, rettich, gurkensalat and saffron-Limonencrème, this is especially in the appetizer, which is also beautifully dressed next to it is clear. paved jakobsmuskle, double from kaviar, is made by young farmers, pancobbles, a tasharn I did not ask what this is, but in the frame of the other ingredients there is a jodig, fresh meresgrundton, which is in turn skillfully buffered by the foamy apple olive oil emulsion. excellent! scottish jacobsal with imperial reading caviar, vomiting, apple olive oil emulsion and ice of coastal plants the following cure reads comparatively unspectacular and also acts on the plate relatiw. However, it should not be deceived by it, because whether it is pakchoi or auberginenconft – the supplements should be consciously the next actuator to leave the stage to the perfectly fried Bretonian stone butt. also the cast, slightly bound shiiitakebouillon emphasizes only that here the product is the star. fried filet from the Bretonian Capricorn with shiitakebouillon, pakchoi, auberginenconfit, meeresalgen and sesame in the next walk I come from the vegan menu the artichokenravioli in a sud of earlylingslauch with paprikachutney, roasted quinoa ensures crispy. This plate also sounds not particularly complex at first, but on the spoon a very intense and multilayered taste is revealed. artichoke ravioli in earlylingslauchsud with paprika and roasted quinoa on the other side of the table it regularly goes with a prachtex kopie of the imperial granat with cracks of macadamic nuts in an excellent chestnut and rice cream. thaicurry presses the dish only very sharp and keeps in the asian very demanding. in direct comparison, the artichoke course is more aromatic, but this is not intended to reduce the quality of this dish. I'm just more satisfied with my choice. roasted imisergranat with macadamia, crustrated with thaicurry, green asparagus and rice cream with the first cure, the glazed lamb neck, it goes into something Mediterranean filz and remains quite classic. the meat is not too soft and gets a varied spectrum of harmonic companions with parmesangnocchi and olive niches, wolves and tomatensard. glazed lambs, tomatensards, red flitterweeks, borons, parmesangnocchi with olive pumpkin and oil lovers will have the meat main course initiated by a sensational wild dam wildconsommée follows a perfectly fried maibockback with a rapseed crust. a very artistically dressed ravioli with an unstoppable gänse. the jus again immaculate, aprikosengel bears fruity accents. and as with many others, it is here the exact proportions of all components that make the dish a harmonious whole. maibockrücken mit rapssamenkruste und raviolo von der unspotten bio gänseleber, holunder blossomennessigjus, summery carpets with vogelmiere, pfifferlings and aprikosengel I had decided to take the guide from the vegan menu. I am not quite convinced by the seller. the dish comes over quite rustic and little filigree and despite a fabulous truffle sauce and numerous other components, it has a little effect compared to the other curses. all kinds of celery, truffle sauce, earlylingsspinat, morcheltapenade, hazelnut cherries, fermented garlic and pfifferlings follow the well-sorted cheese car with excellent matured varieties from the maître affineur bernard antony. a cheese selection from maître bernard antony to the Pré dessert, which I remember at least fresh and foamy, I did not make any notes so that I can say nothing more about it. Pré-Dessert at the last dessert, the terrace series is allowed to move out of full again and the whole can play out. rhabarber is marinated in all conceivable variants, such as sülze, sorbet, as gel and probably still form a little more. honey fresh cheese, also in consistencies, are a nice supplement and leave this dessert not too much slip into the sweet one. a beautiful, technically demanding and varied finale of the menu. all kinds of rhabarber with honey müsli fresh cheese and marcona mandel eating in “Lafleur” was impressive in many respects. andreas krolik cooks at technically advanced level, in love to detail, but elaborated. he does not leave the traditional line. this also does not fit the vegans that are similar. Now I have only tried two dishes, one of which convinced me completely, the main course is less. Nevertheless, I find it admirable that andreas krolik releases the vegan cuisine from the eco corner and it increases on star levels. the service in the elegant palm garden pavilion is on the level that you can expect in a relais châteaux house: formal, but simple and sovereign. if the prices for the menus are more than reasonable in view of the offered rise and quality, they can gray hair over the wine card if they are any. she's one of the most expensive I know. I have counted a total of 11 red wines for less than 100€, which is too little for my feelings definitiw, and also for white wines it is more necessary to come to 80 euro if they want it to be a little more powerful and demanding. anyway – and this is counted to the sommelier – he did not recommend the higher price we chose, but the cheaper, because those who fit him in the senses. but whoever thinks of the prizes in the bank metropolis and in this noble environment can be bad at the place. so easy to pack the biggest credit card, hide prices and otherwise enjoy. because this is very good in the “Lafleur”. petit four"
