"“Hot, regional, creative and refined”, with these attributes about a year ago, the author of these lines, who was never discouraged for a thirsty phrase, gave up the “Koch`s” in the heart of Garmisch, looking back at a very successful dinner, which at the time should form the conclusion of an unforged day. This year's visit should be at the beginning of our Bavarian holiday week, Obacht's Schatzl had taken himself free and so this highlight should also be enjoyed together as far as Obacht's plan. First of all, however, we had to celebrate an appropriately large Hello with many hugs, handed over our edible and drinkable companions, as well as the new four-legged family growth with a monstrous bone and a pound of dog biscuits, and then cuddled. Months I had been looking forward to this evening and could not really believe to be back, the last year is truly like in the flight past and calm and conscious enjoyment outside the own four walls came again a lot too short. Together we went to the Garmischer Evening, about half nine we met in front of our hotel, the Koch ́s is – like almost everything in the place – just a few steps away, the restaurant is off the main tourist stream of the pedestrian zone, which makes no difference anyway in the evening after the end of the shop. In contrast to the last visit, this Monday evening was not proppening, but we should stay the only guests, which I sometimes find a bit depressing, but that should not do the mood at the table. Friendly and cordially she also fell out, the welcome of the operator married couple Koch, the young waiter, whom I remembered positively last year, jumped to the side and politely offered us to take off our jackets. The choice of the table was ideal, from my place I had a good look into the kitchen behind it through the generously dimensioned pane, on the left hand the nice bar area congratulated the critic's eye. The maps have been handed over to a well-thinkable selection of regional ingredients and recipes, yet offering a wide range of ranges, with the Bavarian cuisine being always well-balanced without denying the local cuisine. On the contrary, there is, for example, a court of Huchen, a type of local salmon from a sustainable fishing in a neighboring community, difficult to get there threatened by extinction and the catch is consequently strictly controlled. The layout is exemplary, a six-course tasting menu is completed by a small à la carte section about 12 dishes. The gears can be ordered individually from both parts of the card and thus put together to Gusto, the majority always available in menu or à la carte portion, which provided additional flexibility. Unfortunately, the appetizer “Black Linguine AOP with Scampi” was not available from Obacht and me, because one had not received fresh seafood, but Mrs Koch was committed to offering an alternative to this. Aperitif Amuse To Aperitif, Ms. Koch recommended a Bellini with fresh peach puree, one of my summer favorites, because I didn't say no, Madame shouldn't go out empty, her was offered a non-alcoholic variant without any problems. Magnificently cooled these reached the table, we bumped at and pleasant relaxation made internally wide, which is a beautiful moment. In a pleasant time interval after the task of our orders, in addition to fresh bread, a nice greeting from the kitchen reached the table. In contrast to the slender last year's offer, this time one sat down to the high summer temperatures on refreshing cools and bitter notes. A cold cucumber cream lush and a small spoon of ochsenzungensalat was rich, the latter convinced with absolute freshness and good meat taste, with a sweet acidic taste, which reminded of cucumber water away, in the positive sense. I had two personal problems with the cold snack; I like – with the exception of a really good vichyssoise no cold soups and cucumbers are a gray to me. I tried and found that the liquid kitchen product and I should not be friends. This cucumber bitterness combined with the temperature had something of an all-healthy smoothie for me gönnerhaftly pushed the pan to Madame. At the table otherwise not affected by cucumber intolerance, however, there was satisfaction with the sweetheart, personal dislikes I can certainly not burden the restaurant, that was just bad luck. The more I was looking forward to the appetizer alternatives, which should soon reach the table, before that the exemplary tempered wine was served. The service was due to the fact that we were the only table to settle retrospectively at a level that you can find only in high-class private dining evenings with hand-picked rental brigade. Linguine with salmon – 11,80€ 2016 Breuer Gris Grauer Burgunder, Weingut Georg Breuer, Rheingau, Germany – 0.2l to 5,80€ Visually appealing though in his presentation not exceptional, olfactory retention, only the fish and the fresh dill managed to make it noticeable in the nose and not tickling because I did this half in the plate. A first spoon with fish and some sauce found its way to the palate and this was slightly disappointed. The fish was well cooked and not dry, but it was not seasoned in any recognizable way, and also the sparsely liquid sauce, which was created with hearty wormwood use, unfortunately, in addition to diffus sweet notes with a hint of dill tastelessly had little to contribute. The homemade pasta could also not start much with sauces, unfortunately these were not able to absorb same, which additionally enhanced the pale sensory impressions. I didn't want to disturb the dissolved mood this evening by mockery at dinner and kept my criticism for me. But when I take care two days later! once again, we realized that we had perceived it exactly the same taste, so I mention it without any beautification. Maybe that's why the bump was so unpleasant because we had chosen a comparatively pronounced left hook on the taste buds with the AOP variant. Reconciling the grey burgundy advised by Ms. Koch, his fine fruit was a very suitable companion to fish and lifted up positively from all too “fat” representatives of his Zunft. Madame chatted in this gang on a small salad, which was able to pay for his pretty and elaborate dishes with 8.80€. This wounded, however, were very edgy notes in dressing. small mixed salad beef juices with roasted potatoes and cognac pepper cream sauce – 24,80€ 2014 Eguren Ugarte Crianza, Garnacha Tinta Tempranillo, Bodega Eguren Ugarte, Rioja, Spain – 0,2l to 5,80€ste hipak with cognac pepper cream sauce and roasted potatoes The plate diverted all the appealing notes of green pepper and roasted aromas, even visually quite appealing, even if I found it very bad, even in view of the magnificent cooking stage, that the sauce was so rustic and generous about the meat cut in thick slices and thus covered it in large parts. Then there was a certain discrepancy for the filigree draped salad, which should also be shown in Madame's main food. The meat was so evenly pink, that I quite believe in Sous Vide, unfortunately was fried much too much for my taste in the pan, the desired Maillard reaction had just begun to do its good work. The meat in its own taste good but holding a hint, in addition in the consistency somewhat too bit to eat, well-knowing no fillet here, but hips are often a problem with “mageren” breeds with little marbleation, especially as with the German dairy-growinged – yet a good piece of meat and therefore jammers at a level appropriate to the standard of the restaurant. But the sauce, cooked according to all the rules of art, provided the hoped for great opulence on the tongue: a strong fond, a generous sip of cognac, hearty use of green pepper – this also tastes building foam on toast. Delicious also the roast potatoes, in this case was less really more that only spiced with sea salt, ideally roasted drillings kept pleasant in the background and were together with the pepper sauce enjoyed a small high enjoyment. To this passage, Ms. Koch recommended two different red wines, I chose to be familiar from Spain, a beautiful cuvée from Garnacha and Tempranillo hasn't hurt any steak yet. Also, it was positive that the wine had enough time to breathe, it was also without decanter to the point, which was not too big a surprise in the relatively young and uncomplicated wine. The wine I liked very well, red ripe fruit with well integrated barrique, a wonderful companion to the sauce. On the right side of me, woman was happy with wild boar on cream sauce with napkin dumplings (19,80€, it tasted very good, but I also felt here the orientation measured by the claim and other standard of the restaurant as comparatively rustic. Koch ́s Kaiserschmarrn – 7,80€ I had the Kaiserschmarrn in a delicious memory from last year and this time I should not be disappointed. With the scent that the plate was flowing, I could be awakened from any still so deep coma. Stefan Koch has turned this Alpine classic somewhat, he does not crush it in the pan, but bakes it in a shape and splits it with the knife – nice to look at it. A refreshingly acidic, piecey apricot ragout, which together with the sweet, loose squirrels enjoyed an ideal balance of sweetness and acidity. This time the slightly crispy, caramelized surface of the dough remained in a lively memory, which is a nice textured accent. Late it had become, we chatted a little with Mr. Koch, a high-quality fruit brandy from Tyrol after the election donated the fairy-tale gastronome, which we took together in standing at the bar. And so he went to the end, the first of seven almost unpleasantly beautiful evenings, satisfied and joyful looking at the week before us, it went on the short walk towards our cozy hotel room with its postcards view. Conclusion The assessment of the individual courses would be 2.5 for the appetizer, followed by 4 for the meat and a clear 5 for the dessert. This time, despite the weaknesses that I have always described comparatively detailed in houses with a high level and thus some foods read more negatively when they were in the overall picture, I come to just under four stars for food. The service can only be evaluated with five stars, which, as I said, was also due to the fact that we were the only guests and thus were able to enjoy the undivided attention of Mrs Koch and the young man from the subject. The ambience has not changed, here I stay with four stars, as well as with five stars for impeccable cleanliness in all visible areas, including the kitchen. At the PLV, I am in solid four stars this time, especially the red wine is somewhat self-confident in view of the favorable bottle price. I look forward to a goodbye next year despite all hopefully fair criticism, especially with care! and her lovely Bavarian original treasure, with you again it was great fun, thank you for the time you took, it was a great pleasure for us."
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
