La Fourchette Des Ducs

"Of my three stages Alsace Starring, La Fourchette des Ducs is undoubtedly the most promising address. The flakes are much lighter than the pink sandstone on which they rest. They alternate green cabbage, trout and foie gras. Everything in the premises. But it's the pre-entrance that makes you realize that serious things start very hard. An egg cooked in brine foam mushrooms, white truffle, hazelnuts of the roasted Piedmont is a small gustative murder. Even if one of the home’s flagship dishes, the blue Breton lobster (celery carrot) like Waldorf (sleeve and nuts) duo tomato and chlorophyll cocktail sauce, a little disappointed. No work error because the whole is a great work that makes you think of a nice little cake but salted version. Chicken and caviar are more decorative than useful. But the lobster himself missed the taste. Since we cannot assume the quality of the product purchased by the chef, we must know that sometimes nature plays tricks. The lobster can be Breton, he can disappoint us. We're catching up with St Peter's back. He's called a miller but made a small turn by Grenoble because accompanied by flowers and leaves to caper. And if it’s the “perfect kitchen” but it’s the least. Always this accompaniment of lentils (Beluga fins in this case) with the fish. It is an association that has never excelled me in any way, but is one of the great classics. The frog thighs in parsillad and singled are more original and bring the campagnard tip to the marine side. The following Pyrénées milk lamb is remarkable at several levels. First, its presentation combines the simplicity of the meat simply covered with a perfect mirror of reduced lamb juice and a wreath of panais foam and piquillos purée worked in the pocket of the socket. A beautiful work developed, but without overloading the "clips" plates we encounter too often. The lamb is cooked "to the royal", stuffed and truffled, in kitchen 7 hours. Everything is powerful and light. But it's the cheese that has the most beautiful surprise. No tray, but a really cooked cheese. A Brie Cremous on a polenta base with white truffle. Some gold crusts click. It's a real torso, but it's fine. Having visited the establishment last December, it is a dessert "like a Christmas ball" that was offered to me, with a milk chocolate sphere 28% (Vénézuela maracaibo) filled with a creamy ganache with chestnut, Mandarin insert of Corsica and Bourbon vanilla. This dessert also reflects the spirit of the proposed kitchen: a perfect balance between great technical work without neglecting taste. Our chef does not fall into the traps of the technical ultra, provide an Instagram dish without worrying about the taste buds, too often fashionable. I forgot! The wine list. Spread on the bottom and shape. Indeed, here is a revolution in how to approach Alsatian wines. They are always classified according to the variety of grapes, Sylvaner, Riesling, Edelzwicker, Gewürtztraminer and Pinot for the main. A La Fourchette des Ducs offers a completely different vision (and very logical when you think about it), depending on the terroir. Here we have proposals that keep the road on elaborate and powerful dishes. All this is concluded by a stuffing of original or subtentive mini desserts (for the best) an Alsatian influence: white cheese pie truffle chocolate black chestnut honey, Kiperlé Sablé vanille cinnelle, bee nest pastry cream kirsch, "glasses" jam of raspberry, cinnamon sacristin and essential Christmas Bredele with butter. Brioche olive oil of Guérande"