"The proprietor of this restaurant is a man who is dedicated to the pursuit of perfection; specifically, perfect execution of the French culinary classics. We've been three times. On our first visit, bird flu in France thwarted our quest for the almost impossible to find pressed duck, so we had the lobster incarnation instead, pressed on a rare (possibly unique lobster press created for the 1900 Paris exhibition. The theatre of the tableside preparation was memorable, and the lobster (done three ways, including a souffle was easily the best I've ever eaten. Perfection is not always attained, and the second visit for the same spectacle, the same dishes, in the company of a friend faltered a tad as the lobster was noticeably overcooked, if only ever so slightly. Not a grave fault, but at £200 a person before wine it was just a bit disappointing. Last night, we returned to perfection. Escargots paired with a beautiful marrow bone, a boudin noir starter, and mains of tournedos rossini (really! , and veal sweetbreads, both in classic demi glace reduction. The classics, executed at the highest level. The hosting was perfect too, unobtrusive but personal, with a special effort made to mark our wedding anniversary. It's clear that the staff are also dedicated to the pursuit of perfection one feels that any employee who is not would be quickly ... eliminated. The decor is relaxed, fun even; mostly art from the 1960s (pop , combined with some from the 60s (Greco Roman . Your fellow diners are happy to be here. Given the level of the service, the quality of the cooking, and the sheer joy of the experience, you may not care or even notice that you just paid £190 (pre wine for a chicken dinner for two. After all, perfection does not come cheap."
