Amuse Bouches
Kota

Kota

➤ Harbour Head, Porthleven TR13 9JA, Redruth, United Kingdom

Asian • Seafood • Ice Cream • Restaurants


"We were staying in Porthleven, so booked Kota in advance, as we were aware of this interesting restaurant from previous holidays in Porthleven. We had the six-course dinner menu with the wine pairing, for which my food allergy was well catered for as most dishes were the same as my partner’s. The initial three “snacks” were a delight, as the flavours and textures made them delicious. The second course of BBQ leeks and mussels were an amazing combination of flavour and texture. The third course of beet curds, molasses, and chia seeds was a delightful combination, and I say this as someone who doesn’t really like beetroot. It made the beetroot the sweetest I have ever tasted without overpowering its flavour. The fourth course of brown crab sauce with the seabass was delicious. The fifth course of pork belly with accompaniments was superb. For dessert we had “Milk and Honey”, a white chocolate mousse, Porthleven honey, caramelised milk powder, and soda bread ice cream, which was a wonderful blend of flavours and textures. The wine pairings were very well matched to the dishes. I also appreciated the nicely laundered large linen napkins that we had. The restaurant had a nice ambience, with interesting subtle music which we enjoyed. Our waitresses were very friendly and informative, carefully explaining the dishes and the wines to us upon arrival. The service was excellent. We had a very enjoyable experience, and after this first visit will go back again when next in Porthleven."

Fraiche

Fraiche

➤ 11 Rose Mount, Oxton, Birkenhead CH43 5SG, CH43 5TD, Prenton, United Kingdom

Fish • French • Coffee • Creative


"I was distraught when, just before Christmas, I read that Fraiche had closed. It’s a restaurant we’ve been visiting for years. Never had a bad dish, let alone a bad meal. I emailed Marc Wilkinson to offer best wishes for the future and he replied saying he hoped to reopen in another location. So, it was with some surprise that I found he was actually staying in the original Oxton premises. It seems nothing has changed. It’s still a no choice tasting menu, cooked immaculately and served with relaxed style and professionalism. We gave a deep sigh of relief.While you’re having an aperitif, there’s snacks to be had. A raspberry and verbena shot was a sign that, whilst Marc may have had a few months break, he’s lost none of his touch. There’s sweetness from the raspberry perfectly matched by a citrus hit from the verbena. There’s also spiced nuts, a buttermilk and trout roe rice cracker, cheese marshmallow and, perhaps best of the lot, a smoked eel sandwich.Once at the table, we checked that, as before, there are only eight covers in the restaurant, with seven bums on seats. It’s probably as many as Marc can deal with on his own in the kitchen. For a first course there was diced watermelon. I can still remember our first meal at Fraiche, eleven years ago, when it was also watermelon to start. Then it was mixed with raw tuna so you couldn’t really tell which was which until it went into your mouth. Now, there’s cubes of salty feta and a whack from basil. Smoked salmon follows, in a light dashi broth, with a crunch from small dice of cucumber. Bread was served round about now – four different ones – the fennel one being a stunner, IMONext up, a set parsley cream was topped with thinly sliced raw ? scallop and a shaving of truffle. Then a more assertively flavoured “textures of artichoke” dish – sliced raw Jerusalem artichoke, an ice cream, a crisp and, probably, other preparations that I’ve forgotten. For contrast there sweetness from a passion fruit jelly and crunch from hazelnut. It all works really well. Sea trout had been lightly cooked – I think I recall Marc doesn’t use a sous vide machine so I guess this had just been poached. It comes with a squid ink cracker, salty samphire and a lovely passion fruit mayo. On every single previous visit to Fraiche, the fish has been over favourite course and, at this point, it was the front runner. The final savoury course was an intricate preparation of Cumbrian lamb. There’s a slice of perfectly pink loin ? and some long cooked breast. There’s also classic French lamb accompaniments – black olives in the form of a crisp, shallot, tomato and aubergine. Pre-dessert was a knockout combination of yuzu, orange and a little background hint of liquorice. Texture was more than a foam but less than a mousse. It’s really good. At the beginning of the meal, you’re asked whether you want to end it with “salt or sugar”. Salt gets you cheese. Sugar gets you a dessert which proved to be the best course of the evening – and it’s rare that we would say that. It’s another “textures” thing – this time of exceptionally flavoured Gariguette strawberries. They sit on a shortbread ? tart and there’s fresh berries, marinated ones, a gel and an ice cream as well as a coconut meringue crisp.Coffee was good although somehow during their closure the espresso machine went missing, so we had to settle for a cafetiere. Petit fours were excellent. It had been a lovely evening when we “oooh and ahh’d” over the food several times. And then it was off into the night having, in truth, paid a bill that was remarkably good value for this quality. Oh yes, and there’s a little pack of homemade hobnobs to take away just in case we get peckish on the hour’s drive home."

21212

21212

➤ 3 Royal Terrace, EH7 5AB, Edinburgh, City of, United Kingdom

Wine • Soup • French • Drinks


"On our first night in Edinburgh we decided to try 21212. The service was outstanding, but unfortunately most of the meal left us underwhelmed. We were greeted by two very friendly and hospitable hostesses, and the service throughout the night was equally friendly and hospitable. There seemed to be some confusion over where we were to be seated, but it was cleared up quickly and we were seated at a table in the dining room. The dining room is well appointed, and the tables are not too crowded. However, if you are shy about having the table next to yours being able to hear your conversation, this might not be the place for you, as the setting is very intimate, and several tables share a common bench as one side of the seating. The dinner menu was straightforward, and we were informed that the menu changes weekly, which impressed us both. The wine list was good, and, although I wouldn 't describe it as extensive, they offered a variety of bottles, as well as a pairing for each course. The sommelier however did not offer any suggestions to us, which was a bit surprising, considering this is advertised as a haven for wine lovers on the restaurants website. I would have expected the sommelier to approach us and offer a suggestion, or, at the very least, speak to us, but he did neither. The amuse bouche was creative, but the texture was not appealing. For our first courses, my husband and I each tried a different dish, but neither of us were impressed. The textures for both dishes were off (both dishes included a foam type element that was very sour, and one dish included raw onion, which wrecked our palates). Our second course, a spring vegetable soup, was also not what we hoped for. My husband described the soup course as very foamy and acidic. For the third course, we both opted for the steak dish. My husband 's was modified to exclude shellfish, but the portion size was equal to mine. Although we were not given any option as to how our steak was cooked, it was tasty. The fourth course was a delicious cheese plate, but we commented that the cheese itself was probably not made in the restaurant, so we weren 't really eating the chef 's creation. The fact that we were most impressed with the cheese plate was unfortunate, considering it most likely wasn 't the chef 's creation, and we believe the price of the meal warranted more in terms of flavor. Dessert, the fifth course, was tasty, but didn 't blow us away. For a restaurant with a Michelin star, we expected more. All in all, the service was excellent, and we enjoyed our third, fourth and fifth courses. The first two courses though were not at all what we expected, and we were disappointed. We would not go back, but we would not discourage others from trying the restaurant. It is advertised as being unique, and that is certainly what you get."

Hand and Flowers

Hand and Flowers

➤ 126 West St., Marlow SL7 2BP, United Kingdom

Sushi • Seafood • European • Fast Food


"As part of a group of six for a mid week visit for dinner we left this restaurant feeling disappointed and utterly underwhelmed. Upon arrival nobody asked if we wanted to have our coats stored and we were ushered away from the bar where we wanted to have a pre-dinner drink. We were given one menu on a tablet between six people. In fairness one of our party has severe allergy issues and was presented with a special menu prepared for them...that was a lovely touch..but then again this is supposed to be a Two Michelin star establishment so you might expect that. The main menu itself was very limited which in starred restaurants is not of course unusual. Our table was nice enough but the lighting was extremely low. The table had a lamp in the middle but nobody told us the lighting level was self adjustable... we discovered this just before leaving..! A pre starter snack arrived a sausage roll ..what would a 2 star restaurant sausage roll taste like ?....well in all honesty just like a sausage roll you get in a decent bakery... ,,...as we started to tuck into our sausage roll our starters arrived almost immediately..so we had to start moving plates ourselves whilst hastily trying to finish our pre-starter..The three courses that followed were the most mundane Michelin stared dishes I have ever had. Naturally having looked at the menu beforehand I knew Mr Kerridge 's take was on more traditional plates of food....but in a 2 star restaurant you expect them to be elevated somewhat....don 't you...? The service was passable but the staff looked awkward and uncomfortable. However for me seeing a member of the kitchen staff wander out to congregate with front of house staff at the service desk for a natter whilst biting and picking his nails...was...well ..disconcerting. In a two Michelin Star restaurant you expect some wow factor somewhere across the experience and we certainly got ours ...when the bill arrived ..ÂŁ1,200 for six people two bottles of low end priced wine and a round of drinks before dinner included . For Two Michelin Starred food and service that figure would be comparable with other two starred establishments around the UK....but for this food and experience it was certainly not. Mr Kerridge....I love what you have done for the food and hospitality industry in the UK but I am afraid the Hand Flowers is a Gastro Pub and nowhere near a Two Star restaurant."

Chez Roux

Chez Roux

➤ Greywalls Hotel, EH31 2EG, East Lothian, United Kingdom

Food • French • 4-star • Lodging


"Such a beautiful building and gardens, with a unique history and atmosphere. It feels picky to point out small things which aren’t quite right when clearly its a privilege to stay in such a place, but given the prices and the standard of the competition, expectations are high. There’s nothing really wrong with any of it, but too many small details end up making you feel a bit underwhelmed. On the positive side, the building is stunning and the gardens are immaculate with views out over Muirfield golf course and a lovely rural quiet with birds singing etc. Welcome was friendly and attentive. Our room was in the old building, so clearly you don’t expect straight lines and perfection, but the decor is a bit tired, the windows stuck closed, it was overheated and the room amenities basic for the price not even a particularly comfortable bed. The country house hotel feel downstairs is nice and obviously in keeping with the house so a bit old fashioned it’s hard to find somewhere to sit where you don’t feel overheard and overlooked by others. Again nothing really wrong with the meal in chez roux restaurant, but it was dull fancy menu titles don’t really cover up some pretty straightforward food, though it was well executed and the wine list similarly full of safe recognisable names at a pretty heavy markup. Breakfast was similar, and not even that well done overcooked eggs, slightly stale pastries and a long wait for the teas and coffees. All quite conservative I guess maybe it works for their target demographic. Service was OK, but the pleasant facade didn’t really translate into a seamless experience and maybe they are, like many places, overstretched. Underwhelmed."