Villandry - Menu

"The holiday in Saxony and Thuringia was beautiful, but now again work is announced and it leads me back to the beautiful Elbflorenz after not even two weeks. Caroussel and enjoyment studio were visited privately, Elements is looking for staff and therefore has opened the Fine Dining only from Thursday to Saturday. Good advice is expensive. Or not, because Mr Jenome points out that the Villandry has reopened under new leadership. This promises French cuisine, because what Sauvignon lover does not know the town near the Loire? The search in the network is difficult; the homepage is silent about the offer. With a few search terms, however, there is a cautiously modern, in fact French-inspired kitchen, so that I am happy to walk into the various new town. At 6.30 a.m., a reluctant modern bistro welcomes me in warm wood and light. Guests are hardly present, but Oh, horror! all over the place. And so the powerfully tattooed boss migrates with me through the safe 50 or more places and regrets until I accept that I am only welcome on the high wooden bench as a single guest. Later, of course, all walks are offered in more and more comfortable places, only I can track my discs... But no matter, there is a certain “alternative” nonchalance, including the mothers known from Prenzlberg, who also in the restaurant do not want to harass their up-and-coming offspring with sparse rules of conduct for the rest of the guests or the serving staff... For such situations, the dear God has invented the alcohol, in my case in the form of an extremely compact wine map, on which there are no plants of the Loire. Mostly natural wines, but after all there is a white and two red burgundy, ergo everything well. The choice is based on the simple Aloxe Corton from 2001 €45, which, after a happier distance of the crumbling cork during the evening, proves to be a very harmonious, not fruity companion of the exceptionally selected strong dishes. As an aperitif sipping on the pleasantly herb Cidre 4,8€, I work through the small card, which however completely deviates from the net. The mystery solution: The new owners mentioned by Jenome, who also run the St Pauli, have reopened the Villandry four months ago and now have to live with the fact that the predecessors do not take the card out of the net... Apart from the usual placement humiliation, the service acts without errors. All my wishes are fulfilled; be it the move of the bistro table among the spotlights for better photos, be it a sorbet in the style of the 80s or the compilation of a menu actually not intended. Only the day offers are not brought to my attention, but it is also in the map “Request the service”. The prices are friendly, for four courses with refreshment came 55 euros. There is no amuse. With the first gear, two types of bread are served, of which the strong mixing baguette with cumin is very strong. However, this also applies to the Paté de Campagne, which in Fronkreisch would not give it much stronger, more harmoniously tuned. Locker, strong, giving the wild meat space excellent! This also applies in combination with the mildly pickled cucumbers and pifferlings. And Cassis in the form of boiled blackcurrants who come as much more aromatic and less sour than their red relatives. Only the Senf Crème fraiche I had not understood. The pastry was very sweet, sour the pickles. At the end of the evening, the chef will never take time for me and explain that the milk product should buffer the spiciness of the paté. Okay, but then please with less fat... anyway, very good start! Continue vegetarian with a lentil salad, where less the selected salmon, but more the accompaniments Sauerkirsche and Gorgonzola had triggered me. The cheese comes in the form of a very light crème, while the cherries are powerfully sweet sour. What is ultimately the problem. Because the small non-cooked lenses with crunchy carrots and celery strips are for themselves salty and umami enough, at the beginning also fresh by baby spinach, but are largely covered by the fruit sweets in the mouth. And when the fruit “finally” has passed, the feeling of the mouth is still meager. You don't have to work with sharpness, but you could... A smaller, also vegetarian main course is served as an intermediate dish. Exactly spicy eggplants kidnap me with a clear, juicy curry aroma to India, boiled ? pomegranate seeds and strong goat fresh cheese rather in the Orient and Fregola Sarda and rosemary to the Mediterranean. Sauerkirsche is also allowed to play again, whereby the stronger flavors are better maintained. Everything tasty for itself; in the overall show somewhat undecided. In the end, I definitely lack something sharp, even to complete the desired aroma. I use the break for a visit to the toilets that are not barrier-free in the basement. Everything in the green area, better than expected in the casual environment. In any case, there are only a few steps of old building in front of the restaurant. Possibly there is a flat access over the farm; I forgot to ask and this angers me now. For refreshment, I ordered a Sorbet 3€ despite the hip environment, which turns out to be a pomegranate. something too sweet; the requested Crèmant is additionally calculated with 2.8€. As a main course, I can't resist Brasato from the deer. It's nice that the meat comes to the table and stays hot. The ones I presume due to the Collagen Bäckchen were already cut, with red wine and juniper still being clearly felt. Marinating and Schmoren comes to lean wild, it is still slightly firm, but do not wear dry. Different-colored nickel leaves not only look pretty, but have bites and tastes and are therefore equal players. And that of me who's been standing on war feet with Kohl since childhood. Wacholdercrumble contributes a new texture, but remains more sweet than typical. Only enjoyed solo is the ethereal berry to guess. This is a shame, not only because the denomination on the map creates expectations, but also because the sauce tied with sour cream rather damped. After all, the origin of the crispy fried, internally loose gnocchi remained even after the bath in the sauce. Conclusion: Relaxed team that has the full load well under control. Can be done at any time: Accessible kitchen, well-considered, sometimes not finished thought/bring. Overall, I would have liked a little more courage. You can trust the audience..."