"As someone who tends to be a bit picky, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food. The à la carte menu features some imaginative dishes, such as a delicious oxtail sausage roll and a mead-glazed pheasant leg, along with a selection of Christmas menu offerings from 2016. What was meant to be a three-course meal turned into a delightful series of indulgences, thanks in part to my stretchy pants!
One standout dish was the hot-smoked, whisky-cured Loch Duart salmon served on Guinness sourdough with horseradish mousse and truffle snow. What can I say? This was exquisite salmon, with each element—from the sourdough to the sweet horseradish—blending beautifully.
I kicked off my meal with roasted and pickled heritage beetroot, goat cheese, and preserved apple topped with cashews (£8.50). This was a stunning plate, showcasing sharp apple, wonderfully sweet beetroot, and the tangy goat cheese—an absolute delight. Rolled in apple jelly, it was amusing and unexpected.
Next was a festive dish from their Christmas menu—a rich wild boar and pistachio terrine with damson chutney and purple potato purée. Beautifully presented and reasonably priced at £50 for three courses, there wasn't a boring Christmas pudding or mint cake in sight.
The chef’s duck pâté and chicken liver foie gras was sublime, served with a tart cherry reduction and candied hazelnuts. However, I had jumped the gun by ordering my main course too early. The wild mushroom and salted venison Wellington was accompanied by tender stem broccoli and white truffle celeriac purée topped with roasted almonds (£24). If I had to nitpick, I would have liked it a tad flakier, but the venison was perfectly cooked.
Next, I enjoyed a dish of fried market fish served with braised leeks, kale, buttered new potatoes, and Brixham crab broth. This Christmas special was packed with flavor that harmonized beautifully.
As for dessert, I was ready for something special. What arrived was nothing short of delightful: a plate of amaretto panna cotta with caramelized banana, candied cashews, and a decadent seven-layer dark chocolate and roasted pecan pie infused with vanilla and nutmeg. To top it all off, the salted caramel mousse with vanilla cream, shortbread, and a chocolate ganache-filled caramel cylinder was a clever nod to my sweeter side. I’m a sucker for salted caramel ice cream, and it was heavenly paired with the chocolate brew.
After everything, the chef offered me an ice cream sandwich. I had to put my foot down—my stretchy pants were at their limit, and I needed to call it a night.
If you live near this restaurant, I am genuinely envious. If not, make sure to visit before it becomes so popular that securing a table becomes impossible!"
Market Fish
